Saturday, 26 November 2016


It's my third visit to this magical UNESCO World Heritage site, and yesterday I fell in love all over again.

It is simply stunning, especially outside of summer when more than 60,000 tourists pass through its digestive system, many of them disgorged from hideous ocean liners and touting the most annoying invention of modern times, the selfie stick.

Instead, when autumn ticks over into winter and a moody fog hangs overhead,, like a cold compress, is when this floating city comes into its own.

We were so, so lucky to be staying at the appropriately named Hotel Splendid, smack bang on one of the watery arteries, and to arrive, James Bond style, on a speed boat..

There was a so-cheesy-it's-cool gondola ride, a tour of St Mark's Basilica, a visit to a Murano glass factory and lots and lots of wandering around the tiny cobbled alleyways where getting lost is standard practice. This city is, in fact, made for getting horribly, terribly lost - and discovering all sorts of gems as you attempt to find your way.


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